Hokkaido 北海道

Hokkaido 北海道 – Bounty of the North

Hokkaido 北海道 sake map Long famous for its prime seafood and agricultural might, Hokkaido 北海道 has forged a strong presence in Japanese restaurants across the Western world and in Japan.  Export hits and pioneers include Otokoyama and Takasago sake, Sapporo beer, Nikka’s Yoichi Distillery whiskies, and the popular korui shochu Tantakatan.  More recently, micro-breweries have sprung up across the vast and cold island. Some of them are making outstanding beer.  Most of the producers of alcoholic beverages in Hokkaido are located within or near the fertile and expansive Ishikari-gawa 石狩川 valley.  

Hokkaido Seishu

The island’s remote nature led Hokkaido 北海道 to be settled later than the rest of Japan.  Breweries are all less than 150 years old– young by industry standards.  Hokkaido isn’t considered a major sake brewing prefecture, but it does have a reputation for quality. In the late 1970’s/ early 1980’s, Otokoyama 男山酒造 (Hokkai Otokoyama) introduced much of the North American market to quality seishu. It was a game-changer and is still one of the most popular brands in the U.S..  

The island’s cold weather means traditionally-aged sake matures at a slow pace.  The cool temperatures also aid in combating spoilage. The resulting seishu is often mildly aromatic, compact and light, and with a subdued and dry flavor. 

Hokkaido has more arable land than any other prefecture in Japan.  And despite the frigid conditions– they grow a lot of rice. Global warming has aided brewers in establishing new sakamai.  Recently, the cultivar Ginpu 吟風 has been developed as a Hokkaido specialty.  Other popular sakamai include Hatsushizuku,Suisei, Yukihikari, Kirara, and Kirara 397.

 

Hokkaido Beer

The city of Sapporo is eponymous with its most famous beer brewery.  Sapporo ‘s beer has long been a major player in the domestic and export market.  And with a handful of breweries across the globe, there’s a good chance your local offering was not brewed in Hokkaido.  Not to be the only macro-brew in town, Asahi has one of its many facilities near the city center.  But Hokkaido’s beer scene isn’t limited to the industrial brewers.  The beer brewing deregulation of 1994 has birthed many micro breweries on the island, a few of which make it into the U.S..  These micro-brews tend to be distinct and well-made.  

 

Hokkaido Distilled 

No less import to the island’s history is the Yoichi Distillery located on the Sea of Japan coast northwest of Sapporo.  Founded by legendary Masataka Taketsuru in 1934, Nikka is one of the icons of Japanese whisky and produces some of the world’s best.  Nikka’s international popularity has resulted in shortages of aged single malt and an uprise in young, non-age statement bottlings.  The island’s other well-known spirit, Godo Shusei’s shiso-flavored Tantakatan 鍛高譚 offering, is much less refined, but inexpensive and characterful.  This multi-distilled (korui) shochu has attracted a youthful following.  And it also makes for a good cocktail base.    

 

Geography and Climate 

Located at the northern extreme of the country, Hokkaido 北海道 is Japan’s second largest island.  At 30,394 square miles, the prefecture is slightly smaller than Ireland. The climate of Hokkaido is cold humid continental, with cool summers and long, cold, and snowy winters. The size of the island and its varied topography means that there are several micro-climates.  The western half of the island is slightly warmer than the eastern half, with the eastern half being much drier.  This is due largely to the Ishikari Mountains 石狩山地 (Ishikari Sanchi).  Northern Hokkaido along the Sea of Japan 日本海 (Nihonkai) averages 11 meters of snow per year, while the area around the Sea of Okhotsk オホーツク海 (Ohōtsuku-kai) averages only a meter and is one of the driest areas in Japan. 

Within the Ishikari Mountains lies the Daisetsuzan (Taisetsu) mountains 大雪山.  Many of the breweries in the Ishikari River valley, including its upper Kamikawa Basin 上川盆地, pay homage to these prominent mountains on their labels in with their brand names.  

 

Breweries and Distilleries in Hokkaido 北海道

 

Hokkaido 北海道 Cuisine

Hokkaido is a big island with a lot of coastline and large tracts of land ideal for farming.  This mix leads to a diverse mix of specialties.

Hokkaido is probably most well known for its bountiful and quality seafood and is Japan’s number one producer.  Uni from the island is legendary– particularly from the beautiful islands of Rishiritō 利尻島 and Rebuntō 礼文島.  Also well know is the island’s ikura (salmon roe) and salmon, kani (crab), hotate (scallop), and kanpachi (amberjack).  

Beyond producing a lot of seafood, Hokkaido has a reputation as a ramen hotbed with several local styles.  Sapporo, Hokkaido’s capital, is known for its miso base.  Nearby Asahikawa is dominated by soy sauce-based broths.  Finally, the port city of Hakodate logically uses salt to season their soup base.   

Hokkaido’s many fertile valleys churn out a large amount of produce and animal products.  Wheat, soybeans, potatoes, sugar beet, Yubari (melon), onions, kabocha squash, corn, plus dairy and beef.

The Ultimate Guide: Hokkaido Food Library         epic Japan-Guide portal

She Walks the World provides an excellent resource

 

Recommended Online Reading

excellent Hokkaido sake resource from Japan Navigator

 

Hokkaido 北海道 Photo